![]() PLA tends to get soft and warps at relatively low temperatures ( see our annealing article). We asked 3D Sets whether people struggle with high summer temperatures, direct sunlight, etc. The foil fogged up with superglue on a recently crushed model Sova 120 by Tomáš Hubík. Newer models by 3D sets come with openings for wires, LEDs, etc. And if you’re a perfectionist, you can even make the car with working lights. Another option is to print a mold, so you can make transparent parts with epoxy resin. The headlights, for example, are a good example of possible transparent material postprocessing, especially if you own an SLA printer. And if it’s not possible, we suggest using a different type of glue (epoxy for example).īut there are certain applications where 3D printing comes in handy. It’s better to squeeze the foil between two parts instead of gluing it there. Just keep in mind that superglues (cyanoacrylate) tend to leave ugly white maps on the foil. It’s better to cut the windows from a transparent foil or film. Postprocessing them is really difficult and time-consuming and even the smallest mistake will be visible on the model. Printing large thin transparent parts, such as windows, doesn’t make much sense. So you might be wondering whether the same steps can be used to produce parts for RC cars. Some time ago, we published an article about printing glass-like models. ![]() For example, thin parts of the bodywork are better to be printed perpendicular to the print surface. Sometimes you’ll have to print the part seemingly illogically oriented just to make it nice. The surface orientation of a 3D printed model affects the aesthetics a lot. Check out the interior of Bamboo 4×4 by 3D Sets. You can still use PLA for printing surprisingly small details, though. We’re talking about small-scale car bodywork, interiors (dashboards, etc.), or transparent parts like headlights. We recommend printing detailed parts with the Original Prusa SL1S SPEED. These materials are therefore suitable for printing mechanical parts. They are also more expensive than PLA and PETG. PC Blend, ASA and ABS tend to warp at room temperature and tend to be a bit more of a challenge, at least for beginners. PETG also comes with a glossy surface that might not look as good as you’d expect (but it is still good for certain situations). PETG, on the other hand, is often printed with small visual defects, such as stringing and oozing and needs some level of postprocessing. It’s made in many color variants and comes with a nice matt surface, therefore it’s perfect for printing visual parts. PLA in general is the best-looking and most easy to print material. The first piece of advice we’ll give you is a simple one: print it with PLA. Others like to print RC models just to be static, without the electronics inside. There are even people who buy preassembled chassis and print only the visual parts. The overall look of the model is the most important part for pretty much everybody. Let’s start with the most exposed parts of the model. ![]() Model Sandy, recently published by 3D Sets. We really love their cars because they’re nice, functional and easy to assemble – just like our printers. And it’s a perfect match with the Original Prusa printers and Prusaments! One of their models can be downloaded from, others can be bought directly on their website. It’s an amazing company offering detailed files for 3D printable RC cars with complete assembly manuals. If you don’t know what it’s about, you should definitely go ahead and browse their webpage. We consulted resources for this article with Jiří Lorenčík, co-founder of the 3D Sets project.
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